Day temperatures during this period are -10 degrees Celsius and night temperatures can go as low as -35 degrees Celsius. I was going to attempt the Chadar – Frozen River Trek
Day 1:
We started our journey from Pune airport. After a layover at Delhi we boarded early morning flight to Leh. Everything seemed normal as airport and flight both had the temperature controlled at a pleasant 20 degrees Celsius. We landed in Leh and as soon as the flight doors opened an outrageously cold wind entered the aircraft. We had foreseen this and kept additional warm layers with us in our hand luggage. When you land directly at 11,000ft, the altitude has an effect on your body. You get breathless easily and that is exactly what happened.
We were to be picked from the airport and transferred to a centrally heated hotel. Upon arrival, rooms were allotted and this day was kept reserved for rest which is an essential part of acclimatization. Everyone was requested not to take a bath and avoid sleeping as much as possible. We were told to avoid unnecessary body movements today. Day 1 in Leh was both, exciting and tiring.
Day 2:
The next day we set out for local sightseeing in and around Leh city. We visited Hemis Monastery, the richest monastery in Ladakh. Hemis Monastery is a 45 min drive from Leh. From there, while returning we stopped at Thiksey Monastery. We climbed almost 100 steps to visit the place of worship which has a 2 storeyed high Buddha statue inside. The calmness coupled with incredible views will take your breath away (quite literally also, because of the stairs).
After that we stopped for a quick lunch in Leh market and proceeded to the Hall of Fame Museum. The Museum holds so much information regarding the Indian armed forces that even 3 hours aren’t enough to read everything.
After this we moved on towards our final sightseeing spot – The Shanti Stupa. The Shanti Stupa is situated at the highest point in Leh city. Built by the Japanese and Ladakhi Buddhists, this stupa holds relics of Buddha and pictures of the current Dalai Lama at its base. If you want the best panoramic views of Leh city covered in golden rays of setting sun, make sure you are here in time.
Since our hotel was just at the base of this hill, we preferred descending down on foot. This physical activity along with all the sightseeing helped in preparing our body for the upcoming adventure that is the Chadar trek. Day two ended on high note as we gathered around for dinner with happy faces.
Day 3:
Since 2019, All Ladakhi Tour Operators Association (ALTOA) has made insurance compulsory for Chadar trek. Hence the third day was kept reserved for medical check-up and insurance formalities. Since these formalities happen at the tourist centre located near the main market, we got a chance to do last minute shopping for the trek. Pro tip – Grab this opportunity to buy those extra layers and winter essentials if required. After the check-up, we returned to the hotel. We had a detailed briefing about the trek at tea that helped in clearing all our doubts before making the final packing of our rucksacks.
Day 4:
Post breakfast, we started our journey towards Chilling which is 3-hour drive from Leh. En route we took a few halts purely for photography purposes because how can we actually do a trek if we don’t click pictures?
Our first halt was the Magnetic Hill. Of course, the hill was white this time instead of brown as it was winter and the road was traffic-free because who visits Ladakh in winters, right?
After a photography session here, we moved forward and took a halt at Sangam point, where Zanskar river meets the Sindhu (Indus) river. Of course, both rivers are frozen this time and that was our first sight of the Zanskar river on which we were to walk throughout the trek. We followed the road along the banks of the Zanskar from here until we reached Chilling where the road technically ends.
It was time to tighten our shoe laces and make those final adjustments to our backpacks. This is where it all began. But before we actually started walking, a hot lunch was necessary.
Today was a short walk of 1.5 hrs (3-4km). Today’s walk helped us to learn the art of ‘penguin walk’ where instead of lifting your leg you just slide it across and move. Once you master this art, you practically win over this trek. Nothing can stop you. Today we camped at Shingra.
Day 5:
This was the day where our previous day experience counted. We walked for about 7 km on the mighty Zanskar where we came across different types of icy terrains. At times we got so much grip and friction on crushed ice that it was impossible to slip, whereas at times when we walked on an ice layer that was so clear that stones below were visible. Walking on this layer was an experience in itself but it sure wasn’t a walk in the park. Those microspikes were our blessing guys. (make sure you buy them if you do this trek). And yes, all of this technical part aside, the Zanskar valley will reward you with incomparable views. Views that will blow your mind as you follow the forever curving river basin. The same views will seem something else with changing shadows as the sun moves. This will definitely keep your spirits high.
After this adventurous yet rewarding walk we reached Tib Bao – 2nd campsite of the trek as a changed person. By now we has mastered the art of Penguin Walk and also got used to the extreme weather conditions. After an early dinner we packed ourselves in our -40 degrees adaptable sleeping bags and got good night’s sleep.
Day 6:
Today we had another 6 km walk but it was easier as we had walked a lot till now. It literally became a cake walk now. To add to our excitement, we were to see a 50ft frozen waterfall today. That was definitely encouraging for us to walk those 6 km. Of course, we had the best ‘on the river’ (not riverside) lunch spot enroute. Enjoying a hot lunch and tea (which turns cold very quickly) was an experience that we will never forget.
After about 4-5 hours, we finally reached the sight we all signed up for. The ‘Frozen Nerak Waterfall’. The beauty and uniqueness of this sight is jaw dropping. You cannot ask for more. Yes, we had a reserved time for a proper photography session. Got all the normal and weird poses and clicked pics till our heart’s content. A kilometer more from here and we reached Nerak village where we set up our camp for today. Trust me you sleep well today.
Day 7:
We started our return trek today following the same route. Everyone wished to take a halt and click those last pics at the Nerak Waterfall. After spending an hour we moved ahead. Although we were following the same route the Zanskar valley had few more surprises in her bag. The same locations gave different views and feasted our eyes again. (make sure you don’t max out your memory cards to capture them) After a 6 km walk, which now pretty much became a routine walk for us, we reached Tib bao again for camping.
Tip: If you can bear with the cold just step outside your tent when it gets dark. You will be mesmerized to see a sky that is completely white with stars. If lucky enough you might see the arms of The Milky Way galaxy.
Day 8:
Today was our last day of the trek. We made sure we enjoyed every second of it. We were to cover the walk till Shingra and the additional 1.5hrs till Chilling today, just so that we could spend more time on the Chadar on the last day. On reaching Chilling we got our backpacks in our vehicles and bid adieu to the mighty Zanskar river. Got a “much needed” rest in our vehicle after the longest walk of the trek as we travelled towards Leh. on reaching Leh in the evening we checked in again at our hotel. Freshened up and got into the lobby for the last dinner together. Reliving the ultimate experience over dinner with our trek-mates was another experience. We forgot your fatigue and enjoyed the journey once again through the interaction.
I must say, never have I ever gotten even close to such an unimaginable, extremely adventurous and yet the most memorable experience in my life. Since then I have visited Leh in winters thrice and I won’t stop.
